Archives of Loren Williams Fly Tying Tutorials.
LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Fly and Photos by Loren Williams

The "Sulphurs" are typically represented with the three Ephemerella species invaria, rotunda, and dorothea. E. invaria is the largest at #12-#14 and hatches first, followed by E. rotunda (#14-#16), and E. dorothea (#16-#18). While the duns and spinners of these species are all relatively similar in appearance, the nymphs are not. While attending Penn State, the owner of the local fly shop, Steve Sywensky, made me aware that the two larger, earlier species have a decidedly darker nymph than the smaller, latter species.

The nymphs do have some commonalities in that they have heavily speckled, prominent legs, and short speckled tails. Overall the nymphs will appear quite mottled, and as they reach maturity their thoraxes will broaden and their wing cases will darken. Most streams that have sulphurs have strong populations of at least some of the species. During hatch time the nymphs are often the top menu item. It is at this time, if ever, that more specific imitations-beyond Pheasant Tails and Hare's Ears will be required.

There are multitudes of dubbed sulphur nymphs which can be deadly if tied judiciously. However, too many folks over-dub their patterns creating inaccurate profiles and flies that do not sink properly. I also see too many dubbing blends that are monotone. Nothing in nature is a single color! I have found that quill bodied nymphs are easier for most folks to tie in a slim fashion, sink well, and very accurately imitate the mottled appearance of most mayfly nymphs.

What follows is the light sulphur (E. dorothea) nymph I'll turn to if my more generic patterns fail. I've also completed a tutorial of the invaria/rotunda nymph I'd use, the LW's Dark Quill Sulphur nymph.

Hook: Mustad 3906B or 3399 (#14-#16)
Weight:
.015 or .010 lead wire (optional)
Thread:
TanTails: Wood Duck Flank
Rib:
Fine gold Wire
Abdomen: Golden Pheasant Tail Quill
Wing Case:
Natural turkey tail quill (or blacked dyed quill at hatch time)
Thorax:
Natural Hare's Mask
Legs:
Wood Duck Flank

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Place hook firmly in your vise.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Attach 10 wraps of .015" lead wire and slide it to the thorax area.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Attach your thread behind the eye and coat the shank. Take time to build a taper on each end of the lead coil.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Select and remove a few fibers from a drake wood duck flank feather. Imitation wood duck can be used btu will not yield as nice of a result as the well-marked stiff "woodie" fibers.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Measure, with tips to the rear, to be equal to 1/2 the hook length.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Secure with tight thread wraps as the rear...

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

...and bind forward to the lead coil. Notice that we are using the excess material to further build the abdominal taper.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

End with your thread at the middle.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Select some fine gold wire.

Secure it at the middle and bind it to the rear on the far side of the hook shank as shown.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Even the tips on a section of quill fibers from a Golden Pheasant Tail (hen ring-necked pheasant is a viable substitute).

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Snip them away.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Tie in by the tips at the rear.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Wrap the bundle forward and secure it at the middle of the hook. You should be slight up on the lead wire coil. Snip the excess.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Counter rib the gold wire by wrapping in the opposing direction. I often make my first wrap snug under the tail, this will cause the tail to stand slightly up from the hook.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Secure in the middle and snip the excess.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Snip away a slip of quill fibers from a turkey tail (or black dyed goose/turkey quill).

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

The slip should be about twice as wide as the hook's gap.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Fold the slip in half with the undersides touching.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Square-off the tip.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

With the squared tip forward, secure the turkey slip on top of the thorax region. Be sure you are maintaining a 1/2 abdomen, 1/2 thorax proportion.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Apply some tacky wax to your thread.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Select a pinch of Hare's mask dubbing.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Touch the dubbing to the waxed portion of the thread just enough to let the wax grab some fibers.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

You should have this.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Spin your bobbin holder, either direction will work well.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Now you have this.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Dub the thorax, be sure to wrap back onto the wing case a few turns as it will pull forward later.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Snip the top away from the wood duck feather you used for the tail.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Secure it at the head with 2 rather loose wraps of thread, with the tips to the rear.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Pull the feather through the thread wraps until the tips extend just past the rear edge of the wing case.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Lock the feather in place.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Snip the excess.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Press down with your thumbnail to cause the fibers to split.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Pull the wing case forward through the split wood duck fibers.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Press down with your thumb and secure with 2 tight wraps of thread.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Lift the slip back and take two wedge wraps.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

Cut your slip close without fear of cutting your thread!

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

ull any stray fur or fibers to the rear, form a neat head and whip finish.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

A completed LW's Light Quill Sulphur Nymph.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

The same pattern but with a black wing case for use at hatch time.

LW's Light Quill Sulphur

A simple and effective bead head version for the fast water.